A stone, not a chronicle

There is a stone in Xi’an that records the arrival of Christianity in China in 635. It is not a European chronicle. It is a block of limestone cut in 781, and the Beilin Museum, which holds it, describes it as one of the four most famous steles in the world.

The stele is easy to over-read. What it documents is a tolerated presence with imperial favour, not the conversion of China. Both halves of that sentence matter.

What the object is

The Beilin Museum records the stele as erected in the second year of the Jianzhong era, 781, in the Da Qin monastery in Chang’an. The text was written by the Persian missionary Jingjing, and the calligraphy and the title panel were the work of Lü Xiuyan.

The museum gives the stele body as 193 centimetres high and 96 centimetres wide, carrying 32 columns of regular script and 1,780 Chinese characters. The top is carved as a chi-dragon head and the base is a tortoise.

Da Qin was the Chinese name for the Roman world and, by the Tang, for the Christian Near East. Jingjiao, the Luminous Religion, is what this branch of Christianity called itself in Chinese.

What the text says happened

The museum summarises the inscription this way. In the ninth year of the Zhenguan era, 635, a Syrian monk called Alopen brought the teaching to Chang’an from Persia. The emperor Taizong sent his chancellor, Fang Xuanling, to the western outskirts of the city to receive him with an honour guard.

Three years later Taizong granted the community a plot in the Yining ward and allowed the first church of the East to be built there, with official places for about twenty clergy. The Shaanxi provincial gazetteer office records the same sequence, adding that the site was granted for building a monastery and ordaining monks.

Imperial favour continued for a time. Under Xuanzong the court sent silk with the eunuch Gao Lishi, and the emperor wrote the church’s name plaque himself. Later, at Christmas, the emperor Wenzong is recorded distributing food to the congregation.

Who the “Nestorians” were

The museum sets out the background plainly. Nestorius, a Syrian born around 386, was patriarch of Constantinople from 428 to 431 and held that the divine and human natures of Christ should be kept distinct. In 431 the council at Ephesus judged that teaching heretical; he was exiled to Egypt and died there.

His followers fled to Persia, where the king gave them protection. They organised an independent church with Syriac as its official language, and over the following century it grew. The museum notes that this church answered to a bishop based in what is now Baghdad, and that the stele records the bishop’s name, Ningxu, at the time it was erected.

Two official sources disagree about the discovery

After the stele was put up, the inscription’s own account of favour ended. The museum notes that more than sixty years later, during the Huichang persecution under emperor Wuzong, the Jingjiao church was demolished along with the Buddhist monasteries and the stele disappeared from the record.

The rediscovery is where the two official accounts part. The Shaanxi provincial gazetteer office dates the unearthed stele to the third year of the Tianqi era, 1623. The Beilin Museum dates it to early spring of the fifth Tianqi year, 1625, near the Chongren Temple west of the city, on the site of the Tang monastery.

Both are official Chinese sources, they differ by two years, and the discrepancy is known in the scholarship on the stele. Rather than pick one, it is worth knowing that the date itself is contested. What both agree on is that the stone came out of the ground intact and legible, and that its significance was recognised quickly.

How it reached the museum

The stele stood at the Chongren Temple for centuries. In 1859 an official visiting Xi’an, Han Taihua, found the carving in good condition, built a pavilion over it and recorded the visit on the stone’s left side.

In May 1907 a Danish buyer, Holm, arrived with a plan: 3,000 taels to the temple monks, the stele shipped abroad, and a newly cut copy left in its place. The museum records that the copy was finished in September and that word of the arrangement got out. The authorities intervened, the copy was allowed to leave, and between 2 and 6 October 1907 the stele and its tortoise base were moved into what is now the Beilin Museum, where it is displayed in the second exhibition room.

What it does and does not show

The stele is strong evidence that a Christian community existed in Tang Chang’an, was tolerated, and held clergy and property. One line of the inscription repeats the church’s own claim that its monasteries filled a hundred cities, which is rhetoric rather than a census.

That community was small, urban and largely foreign. Its clergy carried Syriac names and ranks, and its members were tied to the trade routes rather than to Chinese villages. The provincial gazetteer records that the stele also names a Jingjiao monk, the Persian Yisi, who served with the Tang general Guo Ziyi during the An Lushan rebellion and held court office — a member of this community working inside the imperial system, not outside it.

One detail is easy to miss. The gazetteer records a Syriac note on the stone dated by the Greek era to year 1092, which is 781, naming the bishop who set it up. The Beilin Museum describes the Syriac beside the Chinese as the official language of the Church of the East. Two scripts, one block of limestone.

The stele is in the Beilin Museum inside Xi’an’s city wall, near the South Gate. Gallery arrangements are changed from time to time, so ask at the desk, and check the museum’s current notice before you travel.

Sources & further reading